"It only needs a carburetor clean and a battery". It is the most common line that you will hear at any facebook marketplace, craigslist, or swap meet meetup. The fact that carburetors go bad as fast as batteries drain should show just how quickly gas starts to degrade; as little as 6-12 weeks, maybe faster with modern high ethanol gasoline. In this article we will discuss not only the internal parts and names of your CB360, CL360, and CJ360 carburetors, but how to inspect, and fully rebuild them from top to bottom.
In part one of our Honda CL360 / CJ360 / CB360 carburetor rebuild we explain some of the parts and pieces on the Keihin carburetor body. Then we assemble the jets and emulsifier tubes, along with the float needle and seat. Afterwards we install the float and adjust the float height; a new gasket is applied to the float bowl then the bottom side of the carburetor is sealed up.
In part two of our Honda CL / CJ / CB360 carburetor rebuild, we inspect, install, and test the slide and diaphragm for proper operations. Also we install and set the idle mixture screw.
In part three of our Honda CL / CJ / CB360 carburetor rebuild, we install the carburetor to the backing plate and adjust the throttle linkage for proper butterfly operation. Then a baseline "bench" carburetor synchronization is performed. Finally the choke linkage is installed and a full throttle butterfly adjustment is checked.
Once your carburetors are installed back on your motorcycle, its important to fully vacuum sync them for a reliable, well-performing motorcycle. Learn how to do that here:
Parts you might need: