The Honda CB360, CL360, and CJ360 are the most difficult motorcycle shown for a pod filter conversion because the carburetor inlet area is very close to the battery box. This guide covers removing the factory air filter setup on a Honda CB360 and installing Common Motor angle boot pod filters, including the battery box clearance trick that makes the left side manageable.
Parts and tools needed
Parts
(x2) Common Motor angle boot pod filters (one per carburetor)
Tools
Screwdriver or nut driver for pod filter clamps (as applicable)
Wrenches/sockets for factory air filter mounting hardware and battery box bolts
Wrench to hold the nut on the threaded rod (factory hardware)
Supplies
Glass cleaner (used as a light lubricant for the rubber boot)
Before you start
Stabilize the motorcycle on a center stand or secure stand.
Make sure the motorcycle is cool to the touch.
Remove the seat if needed for access (the video removes the seat to see down into the left side area more clearly).
Safety Tip: Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal before moving the battery box.
Removing the factory CB360 air filter setup
Step 1: Loosen the clamp and remove mounting hardware
Locate the factory air filter assembly on the side you’re working on.
Loosen the clamp that secures the factory filter assembly to the carburetor inlet.
Remove the mounting bolt(s) holding the filter assembly in place.
CB360 note: One of the fasteners is a nut on a threaded rod that passes through the bottom of the battery box area and the crossover passage to the opposite side filter. You may need to open access and hold that nut with a wrench to remove it.
Step 2: Identify and remove the threaded rod, crossover tube interface, and rubber seal
As you remove the factory parts, note these CB360-specific pieces:
Threaded rod: The long rod that passes through to the opposite side filter assembly. The video notes this rod is “almost always missing” on many motorcycles.
Crossover tube/passage: Built into the bottom of the battery box and has a D-shape.
Rubber seal: A factory rubber seal associated on the crossover area.
Remove the factory air filter assembly on the opposite side using the same process so both carburetor inlets are exposed and ready for pod filters.
Installing angle boot pod filters on a Honda CB360
Step 1: Make space by sliding the battery box back
On the CB360, the left side is the tight side.
With the negative battery terminal disconnected, unbolt the battery box fasteners.
Slide the battery box toward the rear of the motorcycle to gain clearance (you will gain about an inch of space).
Confirm you can clearly access the carburetor inlet—on the CB360 it can be so close the battery box nearly covers part of the inlet opening.
Step 2: Mark a clocking reference line on the pod boot
Clocking (rotating) the pod filter matters on the CB360 for clearance.
Use a marker to draw a reference line on the rubber boot that follows the boot seam.
Plan to align that reference line to a repeatable feature on the carburetor. In our video, the reference is aligned to the center of the choke pivot/shaft area.
Step 3: Install and clock the left pod filter
Lightly spray glass cleaner inside the rubber boot to help it slide on.
Position the clamp on the boot and orient the clamp screw on the bottom for easier access.
Wiggle the boot onto the carburetor inlet / manifold until it is fully seated.
Rotate the pod until the marker line aligns with the center of the choke pivot / shaft area.
Confirm the boot is pushed on fully and seated evenly.
Important CB360 intake manifold check:
CB360 motorcycles are susceptible to carburetors not being fully seated on the intake manifolds—especially with old manifolds. Verify the carburetor position before final tightening:
The carburetor should be seated far enough that the intake manifold edge is properly engaged onto the lip of the carb casting.
If the carburetor is sitting out by roughly a quarter inch to a few eighths of an inch, it may not seal correctly and it will make pod installation much harder.
Common Motor Recommendation: consider new intake manifolds if the originals are old and preventing proper seating.
Tighten the clamp until snug.
Stop once it is secure—over-tightening can squeeze the rubber and push the pod off the end of the carb intake manifold.
Step 4: Install and clock the right pod filter
Lightly spray glass cleaner inside the rubber boot.
Wiggle the boot onto the right carburetor inlet until fully seated.
Clock the pod using the same reference (align toward the choke shaft pivot center).
Orient the clamp screw on the bottom and tighten until snug only.
Step 5: Reinstall the battery box, seat, and side covers
Slide the battery box forward into its original position.
Expect some resistance as the battery box edges contact the rubber boot; the boot will compress slightly as things align.
Reinstall and tighten the battery box bolts.
Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Reinstall the seat and side covers.
Note: The side covers will still fit with the pod filters installed.
Final checks before riding
Confirm both pod filters are fully seated and square on the carb/manifold.
Confirm both clamps are snug and accessible (clamp screw on the bottom).
Confirm the battery box is bolted down and not pinching the boot so severely that the pod is being pushed off.
Verify the carburetors are fully seated on the intake manifolds and the manifold clamps are secure.
Start the motorcycle and listen for intake leaks (an unstable idle or hanging RPM can be a clue of a sealing issue).
Jetting note: The video covers mechanical installation and fitment. Pod filter conversions can affect fueling and may require carburetor tuning. We recommend starting at the factory jetting and moving up or down from there as needed.
Troubleshooting
The left pod filter won’t go on (CB360)
Unbolt and slide the battery box rearward first; this is the primary trick shown.
Recheck that the carburetor is fully seated on the intake manifold. A carb sitting out makes the clearance problem worse.
Use a light spray of glass cleaner inside the boot and work it on with a controlled wiggle.
The pod filter keeps popping off when tightening
You likely over-tightened the clamp. Back off, re-seat the boot fully, then tighten only until snug.
The pod filter clocking looks inconsistent side-to-side
Use a repeatable reference: the boot seam/marker line aligned to the center of the choke pivot/shaft area.
Re-seat the boot before final rotation and tightening.
The battery box won’t slide back into place
Confirm the pod boots are fully seated and not bunched up.
Push the battery box forward gradually; the boot should compress slightly. If it takes excessive force, recheck pod seating and clocking.
FAQ
Why is the CB360 pod filter conversion harder than other models?
The CB360 carburetor inlet area—especially on the left side—is extremely close to the battery box. Without moving the battery box rearward, it’s difficult to get the boot started and fully seated.
Do I need the factory threaded rod, crossover passage hardware, or rubber seal after installing pods?
No. The video removes that factory crossover-related hardware and notes it is not needed once pod filters are installed.
How tight should the clamp be?
Snug only. Over-tightening can squeeze the rubber and push the pod off the carb/manifold.
Do the side covers still fit?
Yes.